DUE TO ISSUES WITH GOOGLE PHOTOS ALL IMAGES AFTER AUGUST 2015 ARE NOT SHOWING, I AM TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO GET THIS WORKING!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Patched in network, dual WAN router and PoE switch.

Someone else wired up the office, and installed the rack. I just installed the router, PoE switch and patched everything in. 
Patched in VoIP network

Peplink dual WAN router, and Cisco 16 port PoE switch

Small network install, sheetrock over plywood.

So I was dispatched to this "small" installation of about 10 double cat5 runs (20 wires/jacks)
There were numerous cross beams I had to channel around.
It should have been completed within a single day, especially the first day I was at this job I had assistance. 
The entire office had half inch paneling underneath the sheetrock.
The problem was that behind the sheetrock walls there was half inch solid wood paneling. I had to use my sawzall to cut open every single jack opening to snake the wires thru and connect the jacks.
Close up of channeling around a cross beam.
Not only was there solid wood paneling directly behind the sheetrock, but because of this there was many cross beams that I had to channel around to get the wire down the wall.

Used pipe chase to snake the wire to this jack.
Hole cut to snake it behind paneling over to jack.
There was a pipe chase that I was able to snake wires down for one of the jacks, saving me from having to channel around 3 cross beams, I instead just had to cut a hole in the chase to snake the wire down, then across to the jack opening. 

Ceilings had to be open for wire to be snaked down pipe chase.
Finally, one jack was on the wall directly behind the staircase going upstairs. I spent nearly 2 hours trying to open the plaster behind the sheetrock, and get a snake up or down this wall, but the beam for the staircase just wouldn't allow me to get down inside this wall. 
Wide angle of required wall openings.
The only option was surface mounting the wire. Luckily behind this jack was the staircase for the basement, so the wire molding that I ended up having to install is pretty much hidden from daily view.

I tried for hours to snake down this wall,
unfortunately because of the staircase beam it was impossible,
so wiremolding was used.
Finally I installed the patch panel and bracket low to the ground because the customer wanted to put in a cabinet to cover/hide it. 
You can hardly see where the wire goes into the ceiling,
or comes in thru the wall.
I would have prefered to install a rack, but then again, I always prefer to install a rack. It keeps things neat and organized, and just looks much more professional. But for some of these smaller installations it is difficult for the customer to justify the extra expense or space for installing a rack. 
Close up of wire molding going to ceiling.

Close up of wire molding at bottom, opposite side of wall as jack.
24 port patch panel.
Wide angle of patch panel.

Rack and patch panel installation, with video.

This install was my first one with my sony action cam. 
It a pretty straight forward rack install. 


Customer didn't want it mounted so high up on the wall. Generally I mount them up high so that the space below is not wasted, and also so that it is not within arm reach for just anybody to touch things.




Door phone and keypad installation.

I had a small install to wire up and connect 2 door phones and 2 keypads. One indoor and one outdoor.

Door intercom installed, and wiring up the indoor keypad.
It should have been straight forward and simple, especially since most of the wiring was going to be exposed connected to the brick inside their warehouse.
Indoor keypad installed.
However, where I needed to bring the wire up was difficult to get the wire pulled thru, so this simple wiring job ended up taking nearly a day and a half to complete.
Relay for door phone to buzz doors.
Sometimes it's the "simple" or "small" jobs that end up taking up more time than they should be. 
Both door relays installed and mounted.
I wired up these relays were the Viking RC2A devices (relays for the door phones) are secondary, and they connect to the inputs of the keypad relays.
Wiring up the outdoor keypad.
Wiring it this way allows the keypads to actually be the relay that controls the door latch. It also allows the LED of the keypad to change to green when the door is buzzed from the phones.
Drilled a hole at the bottom of the keypad mounting bracket
to bring the wires thru the bottom.

Outdoor keypad installed.